top of page

Notos Men's Pullover

Updated: Jul 1

Wind Sweater Collection

Read the Story:

Or feel free to skip straight to the pattern. It won’t hurt my feelings!

In ancient times, the changing of seasons often coincided with “shifts” in the winds - a change in direction, temperature, moisture, all of which heralded a new time of the year and a continuation of the cycle of life.

Naturally, these winds were personified as deities with attributes fitting their associated season, so I have designed a collection of crocheted sweaters that mimic those same character traits in the form of challenge levels. Here I give you the second in the collection: the Notos Men’s Pullover.

Notos was the hot, heavy southern wind and brought the promise of fun in the sun as summer settled in. It was a time for easy play and relaxation - playing outdoor summer sports, soaking up the rays on the beaches, and getting intoxicated by the heady scent of fragrant flowers.

This sweater captures those lulling images of cooling off in soothing waves with the ribbed yoke worked in half double crochets, an easy pattern perfect for the adventurous beginner looking to add a little texture into their repertoire. The blues and flecks of gold and green in the yarn hearken to those beachside strolls, an apt image of what it truly means to take it easy.

The Notos is therefore an “Easy” challenge level ideal for any crocheter looking to make a relaxing project with beautiful texture and classical stylish shaping. I hope you enjoy your tranquil stroll through this beautiful sweater!

Want the ad-free printable version? Check it out here:

Want the entire Wind Sweater Collection? Check it out here:

Materials & Pattern Information


A Chick That Knitz hand-dyed yarn, “Sea Nymph”

70% superwash Merino wool, 30% mulberry silk

CYC 1 (Fingering) weight, 22 wpi

438yd/3.5oz (400m/100g) per skein (see size chart for quantities needed)

Alternative yarns: Gloss Fingering, Twill Fingering, Capretta Superwash, Wisdom Yarns Angora Lace, EFA Amal Fingering, EFA Moongleam Fingering, EFA Sincere Sock


Main: US C/2 (2.75mm) or any hook needed to achieve gauge

Ribbing: US B/1 (2.25mm) - This is optional for tighter ribbing

Recommended hooks: Clover Amour, Tulip Etimo


Yarn needle, scissors, 15 stitch markers (1 unique marker for the beginning of the round)

Challenge Level

Knowledge of chain, half double crochet, and slip stitches; simple shaping and increase/decrease patterns

Finished Sizes

Instructions for each size will be presented in the following format:

XS (S, M, L, 1X) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

It’s always a good idea to go through the entire pattern first to circle or highlight the instructions for the size you’re working.

*If only one value is given in an instruction, it applies to all sizes. If you see “-” or “x” in your size’s place, do not follow those instructions.


There are two gauges for this pattern, but both will be a square in 4” (10cm).

Gauge 1 (for yoke): worked in half double crochets in the back loops

32 sts, 22 rows

Gauge 2 (for everything else): worked in regular half double crochets

27.5 sts, 25 rows (a post and space = a whole stitch; one post = half a stitch)

*See “Notes” section for how to create gauge swatches

Check out the tutorial video for help with this pattern!


Sweater’s Chest Measurements

Wearer’s Chest Measurements


34.5” (88 cm)

31-33” (79-84 cm)


39” (99 cm)

34-36” (86-92 cm)


42” (107 cm)

38-40” (97-102 cm)


45.5” (116 cm)

42-44” (107-112 cm)


50.5” (128 cm)

46-48” (117-122 cm)


54” (137 cm)

50-52” (127-132 cm)


57.5” (146 cm)

54-56” (137-142 cm)


62.5” (159 cm)

58-60” (148-152 cm)


65” (165 cm)

62-64” (158-163 cm)




1805 (2068, 2328, 2726, 3075) (3344, 3810, 4189, 4334)

1650 (1891, 2129, 2493, 2812) (3058, 3484, 3830, 3963)

5 (5, 6, 7, 8) (8, 9, 10, 10)

Stitch Information

Abbreviations Used

BLO* Back loop only

Ch(s) Chain(s)

Ctr Center

Dec Decrease

Ea Each

Hdc Half double crochet

Hk Hook

Inc Increase

Lp(s) Loop(s)

Rem Remaining

Rnd(s) Round(s)

RS Right side

Sk(d) Skip(ped)

Sl st Slip stitch

SM Stitch marker

St(s) Stitch(es)

WS Wrong side

YO Yarn over

Special Stitches

Hdc2tog Half double crochet 2 together

Hdc inc Half double crochet increase

Hdc2tog YO, insert hk into first st, yo, draw up a lp (3 lps on hk), insert hk into second st, yo, draw up a lp (4 lps on hk), yo, draw through all lps on hk (used for doing decreases)

Hdc inc Work 2 hdc in the same st

*Crochet stitches have 2 loops on top that form a “V” shape. The back loop is the one farthest away from you.

Check out the video tutorial for stitch help.


IMPORTANT! Definitely don’t skip these.

  • Both gauge swatches will have the same instructions, but will have you work the hdc in different places.

  • Swatch 1: Starting in Row 2, work hdc in the BLO of ea st.

  • Swatch 2: Work regular hdc in all sts.

  • Instructions:

  • With main hook ch 37.

  • Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hk and in ea ch across, turn. <36 sts>

  • Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count), hdc across, turn.

  • Repeat Row 2 until you complete a total of 36 rows.

  • The gauge swatch will be bigger than 4” so you can accurately measure the number of stitches and rows.

  • It will also be more accurate if you launder and block the swatch the way you will launder and block the sweater. This gives you an idea of how the stitches will “settle” in their final form.

  • Stitch counts are given at ends of increase and establishment rows/rounds only and will be inside <>.

  • This is a top-down sweater, so it will look “upside down” as you crochet.

  • This is also a great way to try on as you go to check the length and make sure it’s how you like it.

Pattern Instructions

Neck Ribbing


  • Turning chains do not count as sts.

  • Use the optional smaller hook if you want tighter ribbing.


Ch 10.

Row 1 (RS)

Hdc in 2nd ch from hk and in ea ch across, turn. <9 sts>

Row 2 (WS)

Hdc BLO across, turn.

Rem Rows

Rep Row 2 until you complete 102 (102, 102, 102, 112) (112, 112, 112, 112) rows.

Check Fit!

Before joining, hold ends together and make sure the neck ribbing stretches enough to fit over the head. Once around the head, it should fit comfortably around the neck (not too loose or tight). If it’s too small, I recommend going up a hook size from what you originally used.


Hold the ends together with RS facing up (make sure you don’t twist the band) and placing the last row on top of the first row, sl st ends together by going through ea st of last row and free lps of ch of first row sts. <9 joining sl sts>

*See video tutorial for help with joining.

Continue to “Yoke”



  • If you used the smaller hook for the neck ribbing, switch to the US C/2 (2.75mm) hook.

  • The first round will be worked into the sides of the ribbing rows (see video tutorial for help).

  • Rounds will be joined and turned, so place a SM in the first st of the rnd so you know where to insert the joining sl st/where to turn. Increases are never worked in the beginning-of-round stitch marker.

  • Other marked sts will be worked in two ways depending on where you are in the pattern:

  • Non-increase: remove the SM, work the st, replace the SM into the st just made.

  • Increase: remove the SM, work inc, replace the SM into the 2nd st just made.

  • Each size will work its own increase pattern. Pay close attention to which instructions are for your size; if you see “-” or “x” in your size’s place, you do not work those instructions.

Rnd 1 (RS)

With RS facing and working into the sides of the ribbing rows 2 hdc into each “groove” and 1 hdc into each “ridge” around until one ridge rem, 2 (2, 2, 2, 1) (1, 1, 1, 1) hdc in final ridge, 2 hdc in final groove, join with sl st into first hdc of the rnd, turn. <154 (154, 154, 154, 168) (168, 168, 168, 168) sts, 1 SM>

Rnd 2 (WS)

*Hdc BLO in next 10 (10, 10, 10, 11) (11, 11, 11, 11) sts, work 2 hdc BLO in next st, place SM in last st just made, rep from * around, join with sl st into first hdc of the rnd, turn. <168 (168, 168, 168, 182) (182, 182, 182, 182) sts, 15 total SMs>

Rnd 3


Hdc BLO in ea st around, join with sl st into first hdc of the rnd, turn.

Rnd 4


Hdc BLO in first st, *hdc BLO to next SM, work 2 hdc BLO in marked st, rep from * around, join with sl st into first hdc of the rnd, turn. <182 (182, 182, 182, 196) (196, 196, 196, 196) sts>

Rem Rnds to Shoulder

Rep Rnds 3-4 until you complete Rnd 24 (28, 32, 36, 36) (40, 44, 46, 50). <322 (350, 378, 406, 420) (448, 476, 490, 518) sts at the end of the last rnd>

Rem Rnds to End of Yoke

Follow instructions for your size to work the rem rnds:

XS (S, - , - , - ) ( - , - , - , - ): For the next 28 rnds work [2 non-inc rnds, 1 inc rnd] 8 (9, x, x, x) (x, x, x, x) times, work an additional 4 (1, x, x, x) (x, x, x, x) non-inc rnds, remove SMs except the ones marking the first and last sts. <434 (476, x, x, x) (x, x, x, x) sts>

- ( - , M, - , - ) ( - , - , - , - ): For the next 26 rnds work [1 non-inc rnds, 1 inc rnd] 11 times, remove SMs except the ones marking the first and last sts, work an additional 4 non-inc rnds, . <532 sts>

- ( - , - , L, 1X) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X): For the next x (x, x, 26, 30) (32, 34, 40, 40) rnds work [1 non-inc rnd, 1 inc rnd] x (x, x, 13, 15) (16, 17, 20, 20) times, remove SMs except the ones marking the first and last sts. <x (x, x, 588, 630) (672, 714, 770, 798) sts>

Continue to “Split for Sleeves & Body”

Split for Sleeves & Body


  • After the split, you will have the following stitch counts:

  • Body (including underarm chs): 274 (304, 336, 372, 406) (432, 466, 502, 518) sts

  • Sleeve (including underarm chs): 88 (94, 106, 120, 124) (132, 140, 150, 156) sts

  • I recommend counting out the number of stitches you need to work before doing the underarm chains and marking them with stitch markers so that you don’t have to count as you do your hdc.

  • Work all sts through BOTH lps unless you want the yoke texture throughout the entire sweater.

  • If you choose to keep using the yoke texture, follow all instructions moving forward working all the hdc and hdc2tog in the BLO.

Split Rnd

Hdc in next 64 (71, 79, 86, 94) (101, 108, 116, 120) sts, *ch 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) (6, 8, 8, 8), sk next 84 (90, 102, 114, 118) (126, 132, 142, 148) sts*, hdc in next 138 (154, 170, 188, 206) (218, 234, 254, 262) sts, rep from * to * once more, hdc to end, join with sl st in first hdc, turn.

Body Setup Rnd

*Hdc across to underarm ch, hdc in ea ch, rep from * once more, hdc to end, join with sl st in first hdc, turn.

Continue to “Body (Part 1)”

Body (Part 1)


  • Because of the different width gauges of the hdc BLO and regular hdc, the decreases of the first few rnds bring in the chest to prevent a ballooning effect. These are NOT the same as the dec rnds for the tapered waist shaping.

  • If you choose to work the entire sweater using hdc BLO, just work these rnds without decreasing since you won’t have to adjust for the ballooning effect.

Rnd 1 (RS)

Hdc around, join with sl st in first hdc, turn.

Rnd 2 (WS)

*Hdc to last 6 sts before underarm section, hdc2tog three times, hdc in ea st across underarm, hdc2tog three times, rep from * once more, hdc to end, join with sl st in first hdc, turn. <264 (294, 324, 360, 390) (420, 450, 486, 516) sts>

Tip: You can mark the first and last underarm chs to heelp with this part. You’ll just remove them once decs are done.

Rem Rnds

Rep Rnds 1-2 another 2 (2, 3, 4, 4) (4, 5, 5, 5) times. <238 (268, 288, 312, 346) (372, 394, 430, 446) sts and 6 (6, 8, 10, 10) (10, 12, 12, 12) total rnds after completing last Rnd 2 rep>

Continue to “Body (Part 2)”

Want to read more?

Subscribe to to keep reading this exclusive post.

3 views0 comments

Recent Posts

See All


Rated 0 out of 5 stars.
Couldn’t Load Comments
It looks like there was a technical problem. Try reconnecting or refreshing the page.
bottom of page